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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.